Reviews & Scores
(from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south-west portion of the vineyard). A very ripe yet agreeably fresh nose reflects notes of blue berry, plum liqueur and violet that are cut with spice, menthol and earth hints. The exceptionally rich and impressively full-bodied flavors evidence a taut muscularity, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and lingering finish that is naturally sweet. As one would reasonably expect this is quite firm; indeed it’s borderline rustic. 2032+
The Bonnes-Mares parcel owned by the domaine was one of the most severely frosted in the vineyard in 2016, but with a green harvest, Monsieur Millet was able to keep the potential vigor of the vines nicely reined-in and this wine was showing very good potential at the time of my visit. The bouquet is deep and black fruity, offering up scents of black cherries, blueberries, blackberries, a good base of soil, dark chocolate, gamebird, vanillin oak and a touch of savory spices in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite pure on the attack, with plenty of fruit at the core, good soil signature, ripe tannins and a long, well-balanced and primary finish. This was the most on form wine in the cellar on this day and showed lovely promise. 2028-2080.
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Les Amoureuses, though here there is slightly more red fruit and perhaps a heightened sense of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grippy tannin, good backbone (as usual) and a saline influence that becomes more accentuated toward the fresh finish. This feels a little tight-lipped at the moment compared to others tasted from barrel, but it also feels persistent and, for want of a better word, enigmatic.
The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also unusually saturated in hue this year, though Millet reports having done no more pigeage than usual. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, wild berries, cassis, dark chocolate, peony and caramelized orange rind, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly fine boned, with chalky structuring tannins, a pure core of fruit and a long, fragrant finish. Despite its disconcertingly deep hue this is one of the most supple, elegant renditions of the de Vogüé Bonnes Mares in the last decade.
The de Vogüé Bonnes Mares comes from a sizeable 2.7ha on red clay soils and is always the most structured and ‘masculine’ of the domaine's wines. It's dark and intense, with violet and blueberry scents, a plush, concentrated palate, stylish 35% new wood and the depth and concentration to age. Rich and very appealing. Drinking Window 2026 - 2037.